by Paul Heney
Last updated: 9:30 AM ET, Sun May 21, 2023
There are plenty of European cities favored by queer travelers for their nightlife, culture and weather.
While London may seem to miss out on that third aspect, on a recent spring visit, the city spoiled me with abundant sunshine and temperatures in the 60s. And although none of us are happy about climate change, a local friend confided that the weather in the U.K.’s largest city has been feeling distinctly more Mediterranean the last handful of years.
For sure, London has plenty to offer LGBTQ+ travelers, and the city’s central hub of queerness is the Soho neighborhood. Old Compton Street boasts plenty of bar and restaurant options, such as the hopping G-A-Y nightclub, a favorite of the younger crowd. You can also find more relaxed gay or gay-friendly watering holes in the area, such as Waxy O’Connors, Rupert Street Bar, The Yard, Heaven, and The Village. I found them to be quite busy in the early evening, due to London bars closing at 11 p.m.—quite different than most American cities.
The Village karaoke night (Photo Credit: Paul Heney)
There are also numerous queer-oriented businesses scattered around, including clothing shops and more fetish gear stores than I think I’ve seen in any other city. The neighborhood is wonderfully integrated, with queer and straight couples walking hand in hand and a nice mix of tourists and locals.
Last year, the U.K.’s first ever LGBTQ+ museum opened near St. Pancras train station (which is also the Eurostar hub for London). Queer Britain is on the small side, and free to enter for all. You can see the whole thing in less than an hour; the exhibits are thoughtful and well done, and I hope that the nonprofit can raise funds to expand it in the future. I particularly enjoyed the looping video of the 2023 Madame F Queer Britain Art Award Winners. Donations are accepted and there’s a fun gift shop attached to the museum.
London has an endless supply of lodging options, but I was delighted with my choice of the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London. I lucked into visiting during the brand’s annual Global Day of Discovery program, which Renaissance’s 170 worldwide properties use to connect interesting local personalities with guests—surprising them with unexpected moments that are unique to the hotel’s specific neighborhood.
Room at the Renaissance (Photo Credit: Paul Heney)
The property features a total of 245 rooms and suites and has a fascinating history. Connected to the St. Pancras train station, it was opened in phases in 1869 and 1873 as a hotel by the Midland Railroad Corp. It eventually closed in 1935 and served as offices and storage for the rail company.
After extensive renovations, the grand hotel (which in places feels like a cathedral due to the background of its architect) reopened in 2011 as a Renaissance. Queer travelers will be delighted at the opportunity to snap a selfie on the stunning grand staircase, which is immediately recognizable as the setting of the “Wannabe” music video by the Spice Girls.
The property feels both modern and historic at once, and runs its own spa, which amazingly sees 90 percent of its business from local residents. There’s a lovely lobby restaurant, The Hansom, which features a memorable afternoon tea that made me feel like a Brit myself, even though I forgot to keep my pinky finger out while drinking.
Booking Office (Photo Credit: Paul Heney)
And the main restaurant, named Booking Office 1869, feels like a secret clubby space—and was designed to impress visitors stepping off the Eurostar next door direct from Paris—presenting a space as grand as the French capital’s most exclusive brasseries.
One of my favorite things about the hotel was its proximity to all the sights I wanted to see. The Soho area was roughly 18 minutes door to door thanks to the efficient Underground subway system. And a short walk from the Renaissance took me to the aforementioned Queer Britain museum and its adjacent Coal Drop Yards, a newly reimagined industrial space that now houses a brilliant selection of shops and restaurants, such as funky vintage clothing shops like Shelter and Beyond Retro.
Queer Britain exhibit. (Photo Credit: Paul Heney)
It's one thing to Google ideas for an upcoming trip, but I really enjoyed using the Renaissance’s Navigator program. With a desk right next to the Concierge’s, this concept is a more casual experience for the guest, allowing them to get specific recommendations from someone really plugged into the community. I spent time chatting with Navigator Luke Basseto, and he gave me plenty of advice about the queer nightlife in Soho, as well as local shops like the fun Gay’s the Word bookstore, a few scant blocks from the property.
Pride in London, scheduled for July 1 this year, is the U.K.’s largest pride event and also claims to be the most diverse. It generally attracts about 1.5 million visitors.
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